Inventive delights for an elegant teatime
original matcha Swiss roll
Slicing through this deliciously fluffy cake reveals a swirl of matcha cream and whipped cream. Marukyu Koyama-en shares its famous recipe as adapted for home bakers. Follow the measurements and directions carefully, and the result will be wonderful.
(Makes 1 roll, 12 cm diameter by 30 cm long)
Sponge cake (30 x 30 cm):
- 4 whole eggs plus 5 eggs, separated
- 1⅓ Tbsp sugar, plus 5½ Tbsp
- 1½ Tbsp honey
- 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
- 40 ml milk
- 1¾ Tbsp matcha powder
- 9 Tbsp cake flour
- 2½ Tbsp cornstarch
- 260 ml heavy cream
- 2 Tbsp sugar
Matcha cream filling:
- 70 ml heavy cream
- 1¼ Tbsp matcha powder
- 1 Tbsp sugar
In advance: Line a baking pan with parchment paper, and preheat oven to 180°C (355°F).
1 Make sponge cake batter. Place 4 eggs, 5 egg yolks, the 1⅓ Tbsp sugar, and honey in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer until batter turns pale and falls in ribbons.
2 In another bowl, whip the 5 egg whites with an electric mixer, gradually adding the 5½ Tbsp sugar in two or three stages and mixing well after each addition. Continue beating until stiff peaks form.
3 In a small pan, warm butter and milk until butter has melted, taking care not to let the mixture boil; remove from heat.
4 Fold half the beaten egg whites into the sponge cake batter. Sift matcha powder, cake flour, and cornstarch together and fold into the batter along with the remaining egg whites, rotating the bowl as you fold to combine ingredients evenly.
5 Pour the butter-milk mixture over a rubber spatula into the batter and mix until smooth.
6 Pour batter into the parchment-lined pan and bake for 20 minutes.
7 Test doneness with a toothpick. When pick comes out clean, remove cake from oven. Drop the pan onto a flat surface from a height of 30 to 40 cm to prevent cake shrinkage. Remove cake from pan while still warm and place on a wire rack; cover with another piece of parchment slightly larger than the cake.
8 Hold the top and bottom parchment papers together and flip the cake over. (If this is difficult, place another baking pan atop the cake and invert.) Peel off the parchment and replace it lightly to cover the cake.
9 Invert the cake once more so the top surface is up, and let cool with parchment paper on. (Do not let cake cool too long, as it may dry out and could crack when rolled.)
10 Make the whipped cream. Place heavy cream in a bowl, add sugar, and whip into soft peaks.
11 Make the matcha cream filling. Place heavy cream in a bowl. Sift together matcha powder and sugar, and add to cream. Whip into soft peaks.
12 Invert the sponge cake once more so that the bottom surface is up. Place the whipped cream on the right-hand edge of the cake and spread it to the left with an icing spatula. Slightly flatten the mound of whipped cream on the left, and rotate the cake so that the mounded whipped cream is nearest to you.
13 Using a spatula, transfer the matcha cream filling in step 11 into a pastry bag fitted with a round tip (see step 4 photos in cream-puff recipe, coming up in vol.9). About 3 cm from the cake edge nearest you, squeeze out the matcha cream horizontally three times, and mound the filling together using the icing spatula.
14 Starting from the front, roll up the cake with the parchment sheet and place seam-side down so the roll will hold its shape. Wrap in another sheet of parchment and refrigerate for 1 hour to firm up the filling.
15 Cut into slices to serve. Warming the knife first will make cutting easier.
In the late 1600s company founder Koyama Kyujiro began cultivating and producing tea in Uji. For more than 300 years, Marukyu Koyama-en has built a reputation as a renowned purveyor of fragrant, mellow teas, winning many top awards in tea-appraisal competitions. Tours are offered at the company plant in Uji, and its Moto-an tea house is a popular stop for matcha-flavored sweet treats. There, the machiya townhouse-style interior is an oasis of calm with a view of a small garden and a separate tea room. Recommended items on the menu are the Swiss roll and beverage combo (¥1,200) and the usucha thin tea with wagashi confection set (¥1,100). In the adjacent shop, a wide variety of teas and sweets is available for home use or gifts. Prices listed include tax.
86 Ogura-cho Terauchi, Uji, Kyoto
Nishinotoin store and Moto-an tea house:
Tea house 10:30 AM to 5 PM (last order);
shop 9:30 AM to 6 PM
Closed Wednesdays (open if Wednesday is a national holiday)
Marukyu Koyama-en also has shops in the JR Kyoto Isetan and Kyoto Takashimaya department stores, and products are available at fine tea and tea-utensil retailers throughout Japan.
Source " KATEIGAHO INTERNATIONAL Japan EDITION Spring / Summer 2017 vol.39 "
Special thanks to Marukyu Koyama-en
Photography by Sadaho Naito
Text contributions by Sang Mi Kang and Aki Hirayama
Food preparation by Kyoko Imai, Yuki Uenoyama, and Yuko Koyama
Styling by Yuko Magata